Rabbit Information
Deciding on a Breed
Once you decide on purchasing a rabbit, you will need to determine what breed you wish to get. Each breed is unique and typically range between 2 and 15 pounds. Some have lopped ears, some have wool, some have short velvety fur (rex fur), and some even have a combination of these or other characteristics. Your decision depends upon your own preferences, time, space, and the availability of the breed in your area.
To view photos of all of the different breeds of rabbits in the US, visit http://www.arba.net and click on the link that says "Breed Photos and National Club Links". This will help give you an idea as to which breed appeals to you. To find specific information about a particular breed, click on that photo and you will be taken to the website for the breed's national specialty club. There, you will find more specific information about the breed.
What Age to Buy
The age of the rabbit is very important when deciding whether or not to buy it. You should NOT buy a rabbit under 8 weeks old. Although some irresponsible people will try to sell bunnies as young as 4 weeks old, they are not yet fully weaned at this age. When a bunny is 4 weeks old, they are typically just starting to eat solid food, but still nursing. If they are forced away from their mother to eat entirely solid food, this will disrupt their digestive system and will often lead to death. At 8 weeks old, they should be eating entirely solid food on their own, and ready to be taken from their mother. In most states, including the state of Arizona, it is illegal to sell a kit under 8 weeks of age. Breeders that advertise unborn babies or kits under 8 weeks are the types of breeders you want to avoid. Rabbits kits are far more delicate than kittens or puppies, who are generally ready to be deposited upon around 6 weeks of age or so. Rabbits are at the weaning stage at that time, so placing a deposit on a baby that still has a chance of passing away due to weaning enteritis complications is not smart on the buyer's behalf and not ethical on the breeder's part. In addition to researching your chosen breed, research the breeders you have in your area so you are buying from a reputable one, and not a backyard breeder selling underage mutts on craigslist.
We hold our babies until 12 weeks of age so they have completely passed the weaning enteritis stage and we have a better idea as to the quality they could turn out to be. Typically, a rabbit will live to be about 5-7 years old, although some live as long as 10+ years. Although babies are cute and fun, getting an adult rabbit can be equally rewarding. While looking for a rabbit, try to keep an open mind and possibly be willing to accept an adult rabbit in need of a good home to your family. There are definite benefits to getting an adult rabbit. Their personality is apparent and developed, they are often already friendly and well adjusted, and are by far easier to litter box train. Rabbits are generally considered adults between the ages of 6 an 8 months depending on the breed, but often times they continue to slowly grow and develop up to 3 years of age.
Which Sex is Right for You
The sex of a pet bunny really does not matter. There is not much personality difference between bucks and does, although each rabbit does have their own distinct personality. I've found that in my breed, Holland Lops, the bucks tend to be more lively and friendly and the does tend to be more calm and cuddly. So, it depends on your own personal preference as to which sex is right for you.
Breeders vs. Pet Stores
There are many reasons why typically, I've found it best to purchase a pet quality rabbit from a reputable breeder rather than most pet stores. A pet store charges is usually significantly higher than that of a breeder. Also, the rabbits a breeder sells are most often purebred and rabbits from a pet store are usually mixed breed. Yet, pet stores will market these mixed breed rabbits labeled as popular breed names, even if when the rabbit matures it bears no resemblance to the breed it was sold as. When you purchase a purebred rabbit, you can be almost certain the rabbit will mature as expected.
The average pet store price of accessories for the rabbit are usually higher than that of a breeder. Although many breeders will not have equipment for sale, those who do tend to sell at reasonable prices, since many make their own cages and buy the other accessories in bulk. Most breeders that sell accessories will sell a rabbit and the accessories as a package deal. Usually, if a breeder does not offer accessories for sale, they can refer you to a business who does. There are several rabbit equipment suppliers around the country that offer good prices on rabbit equipment.
The age of the rabbit for sale sometimes depends on the state that the rabbit is purchased in. Some states have regulations that a rabbit cannot be sold unless it has reached a minimum age. In states without such laws, most pet stores will want to offer rabbits for sale that are still at the little, cute age. This tends to be about 4-6 weeks old, which is before the bunnies are fully weaned. Although it is a health risk to the bunnies to be sold so young, they are very marketable at this age. A business will tend to try to make a profit, and be more willing to take this risk to do so. A breeder will wait until they feel that the rabbits are fully weaned, which is when they are about 6-8 weeks old. At this age, the bunnies aren't nearly as fragile as they were a couple weeks before, therefore they are off to a much better start on a healthy life.
Another difference between pet stores and breeders is the health guarantee on the rabbit. Usually, a pet store will only have a 24 hour guarantee for any animal they sell. If it gets sick or dies after that, they will do nothing to replace the animal. For this reason, most people will not return a rabbit should it get ill or die. They figure it is past the guarantee and cannot even complain. This is one reason why pet stores continue to sell rabbits at an unhealthy age. When purchasing from a breeder, you can usually request a health guarantee. Most breeders will give 2-4 weeks for the guarantee. Also, many breeders will have a take back policy, should the new owner need to get rid of the rabbit. This way, the rabbit can be placed in another pet home and will help keep people from 'disposing' of their pets inhumanely (such as turning them loose).
Pet stores and breeders usually act very different when it comes to care instructions and answering post-sale questions. Normally, a pet store will offer no written care instructions, just verbal ones. Even then, due to their lack of knowledge of rabbits, their instructions aren't always accurate. Also, pet stores don't usually offer much for answering post-sale questions. Again, this is due to a lack of knowledge of the store employees. On the other hand, many breeders will give both written and verbal instructions at the time of the sale, as well as contact information should the owner ever have any questions. Overall, the breeder's knowledge of rabbits is far superior to that of the average pet store employee. Therefore, the breeder can offer more information to the pet owner than the pet store can.
Housing Your Rabbit
Cage Location:
The first thing you will need to do is determine the location of the cage for your rabbit. This will determine the type of cage that you will need for the rabbit. A rabbit can live either indoors or outdoors.
For an outdoor cage, you will need to make sure the location meets the following requirements:
It is well protected from the weather. No wind, direct sunlight, moisture, etc. can reach the inside of the cage. It is protected from extreme temperatures. A rabbit should have extra protection, such as straw or hay for bedding, when temperatures get near or below zero. If the cold is extreme, other means of heating should be used. A rabbit can handle cold temperatures much better than heat, though. When temperatures rise above 80 degrees, a cooling method should be used. The method should not make the rabbit very wet or sitting in a breeze (such as right in front of a fan), as these can cause the rabbit to catch cold. Some suggestions to use are a frozen 2 liter bottle of water in the cage for the rabbit to lay against, a misting system outside of the cage, evaporative cooler, air conditioner, fan, etc. It is protected from other animals. Dogs, cats, and wild animals can pose a threat to the rabbit. It should be well ventilated and provide adequate daylight (not direct sunlight) during the day. For an indoor cage you will need to make sure the location meets the following requirements:
It is protected from other household pets that may pose a threat to the rabbit. It is located in an area that has adequate light (roughly 50% light, 50% dark is sufficient) The rabbit cannot reach any foreign materials (electric cords, clothing, plants, etc.) through the wire of the cage. It is not too hot (over 80 degrees) or too cold (below zero) in the location that the rabbit will be housed.
Cage Type:
Depending on whether you chose to house the rabbit indoors or outdoors, you will now need to choose a cage type that will best suit your needs. Usually, it is best to use a hutch for an outdoor rabbit, and an all-wire cage for a rabbit housed inside of a building or home.
A hutch is typically a wood and wire construction that is built to house the rabbit. It should have a slanted roof to allow for runoff of moisture. It should have a solid back, and at least one solid side to help protect from wind. The front and other side should be made of no larger than 1x2" wire, and include the door on the front with a secure latch. The floor should be made of either 1/2x1" or 1/2x1/2" wire, to allow the waste to drop through the floor of the cage. Although some hutches have solid wood floors, this is not recommended due to sanitation purposes. Most hutches are free-standing and stabilized to make sure it doesn't tip over. DO NOT build the hutch out of painted or chemically treated wood, as this can be harmful to the rabbit should it chew on it.
An all-wire cage is best suited for an indoor purpose. An all-wire cage is usually made of 1x2" wire, with 1/2x1" wire on the floor. Most have a metal drop pan attached to the bottom to catch the waste. Because the cage provides no protection from the elements, it is only recommended for use inside a building or home.
We do not use litter boxes and do not recommend solid bottom cages. What you use is up to you, but please be aware that my rabbits are kept on wire bottom cages that allow all excrement to fall below the rabbit into drop pans, eliminating the chances of coming into contact with it. None of our rabbits have issues with sore hocks, and despite the popular, non-factual opinion of the House Rabbit Society, wire bottom cages do not cause sore hocks. Poor breeding, obesity and unsanitary living conditions are the sole contributors to sore hocks, which are more likely to occur on solid bottom flooring. Despite this, rabbits can still be relatively easy to litter box train should you decide to do so.
The mature weight of the breed of rabbit you purchase will determine the size of the cage you need. For the smaller breeds, a good rule of thumb is to allow at least one square foot of floor space per pound of mature weight. With the larger breeds, you can usually allow about 1/2 or 3/4 of a square foot per pound of mature weight. If in doubt, ask the person whom you purchased the rabbit from for their recommendation as to the size of the cage best suited for the breed.
Cohabitation:
It is generally not recommended to have 2 or more rabbits living together in the same cage. Here are the specific scenarios for different combinations of rabbits living together:
Two bucks - Two males living together will become territorial as they mature and will fight.
One buck and one doe - A pair of rabbits living together will result in continual mating. As the doe gets closer to her due date, she will become more territorial and aggressive towards the buck. The two may start fighting at this point. If the doe successfully has her litter, often the entire litter will be killed by the buck.
Two does - This combination will sometimes work, provided that the two were raised together and do in fact get along. It only works out about half of the time. If you choose to do this, be sure to watch for signs of conflict, as at any time they could turn on one another. If signs of conflict occur, you will need to permanently house the two separately. Also, if you are expecting a litter from one or both does living together, they will need to be housed separately to raise their litters. Fighting among rabbits often leads to serious injury or death. Therefore, it is important to keep any conflicts from occurring.
If the rabbits are intended to be together, it is absolutely mandatory that they BOTH be spayed or neutered. Hormones play a huge role in the attitude and aggression of the rabbit. A moody doe might attach her neutered companion during a wave of hormones, when the rest of the time she is perfectly happy with her companion. The same holds true with males, however they maintain a more constant level of hormone influence, whereas does fluctuate.
Grooming Your Rabbit
Rabbits are generally very clean animals, yet they do need grooming. The amount of grooming needed depends mostly upon the fur type of the rabbit.
Grooming Normal and Rex Fur
A normal or rex furred rabbit will need to be brushed occasionally, but especially when the rabbit is molting. A rabbit will usually molt only once or twice a year. During other times, they shed very little fur. A normal or rex furred rabbit should be groomed with a slicker brush. To get out any loose or dead fur, you can dampen your hands with water, then pet the rabbit. The loose fur will then stick to your hands.
Grooming Wool
A wooled breed will need the most grooming. To keep the coat from matting, you will need to thoroughly groom them daily using a rake or comb to help break up any matting. To get a mat out of the fur, work at just a little at a time, from the tip of the fur towards the skin. Get as much as you can out with your fingers, then use the rake or comb.
Stain Removal
Occasionally a rabbit will get urine stains on its fur. To remove these stains, first get as much as you can off with plain water. On a white patch of fur, you can use hydrogen peroxide on the area, thoroughly soaking it. Just leave the peroxide on the fur to dry. Do not use the peroxide around the eyes. Another method of stain removal is to wet the area and apply cornstarch. Let it dry, and then brush the area.
Bathing
Under normal circumstances, you do not need to bathe your rabbit. However, should your rabbit get very dirty, you may wish to bathe it. The best place to bathe a rabbit is in a kitchen sink with a sprayer. It is also very helpful to have 2 people bathing the rabbit, to avoid injury. To do this, follow these steps:
1. Place a scrap of carpet, towel, or rag in the bottom of the sink to keep the rabbit from slipping. 2. Adjust the temperature of the water to lukewarm. 3. Place the rabbit into the sink. Have one person keep control of the rabbit. 4. Using the sprayer, get the rabbit's body thoroughly wet. When bathing, you will want to avoid getting water in the ears and soap in the eyes, so it is best to only bathe the rabbit from the neck down. 5. Rub a small amount of baby shampoo throughout the fur of the rabbit. You will want to have the other person hold the rabbit over the sink on it's back to wash it's underside. 6. Thoroughly rinse the shampoo from the fur. Make sure you get it all out well so that the rabbit does not ingest the soap when it grooms itself. 7. Remove the rabbit from the sink and dry it as thoroughly as you can with a towel. 8. Using a blow dryer set on low or medium, thoroughly dry the rabbit. If you have it set on heat, make sure you do not let any one area of the rabbit get too hot. If the rabbit does seem to be getting hot, use the cool setting. Do not leave the rabbit wet any longer than you have to, because it can easily catch cold. 9. Only after the rabbit is thoroughly dry, you can return it to it's cage.
Trimming Your Rabbit's Toenails
It is important to trim your rabbit's nails regularly to avoid discomfort to the rabbit should the nails grow too long. It will also help protect you from sharp claws should the rabbit scratch you.
When trimming the toenails, you can either have the rabbit on it's back in your lap, or the rabbit sitting down on the floor or table. Whichever way is the most comfortable for both you and the rabbit is the method you should use.
When trimming it is easiest to do one paw at a time so you do not accidentally skip any nails. There are 5 claws on each front paw, including the dewclaw on the inside, and 4 claws on each back paw. Make sure to not cut past the 'quick' of the nail, which is the blood vessel that extends part way down the nail. It is especially difficult to see in dark toenails. For this reason, it is best to have good lighting when you are trimming the nails to ensure you do not cut into this blood vessel.
If you should cut into the blood vessel, use styptic powder to help stop the bleeding. If you do not have any on hand, you can use a paper towel to absorb the blood until it stops bleeding on its own.
Rabbit-Proofing Your Home
Before allowing your house rabbit out to run in your home, there are some precautions you need to take to protect both the bunny as well as your home.
Items you may need
The following is a list of some items you may find helpful in rabbit-proofing your home:
Tabasco sauce or bitter apple Indoor/Outdoor Repellents (made for cats and dogs) Plastic tubing Thin aluminum sheeting (garden aluminum) Spray Bottle of water Electrical Cords
Rabbits will chew on most anything, especially electrical cords. There are, however, some things you can do to avoid this. The simplest and best way is to get any cords out of the rabbit's reach. You can staple them to the wall or hide them behind or under furniture. If this cannot be done, the next best thing you can do is get some plastic tubing and cut a slit down the length of the tube. The tube diameter should reflect the size and amount of cords to be placed in the tube. Then, simply push the length of the cord into the tubing. You will only need to place the tubing around any portion of the cord that could be reached by the rabbit. If this isn't possible, you can rub Tabasco sauce or bitter apple on the cord. Once the rabbit tries to chew and gets a taste, it should leave the cord alone.
Furniture and Baseboards
Sometimes a rabbit will even try to chew on your furniture or baseboards. If it is convenient, the easiest way to avoid this is to place aluminum sheeting around the chair leg, baseboard, etc. so that it is impossible to chew. After a while the rabbit should begin to ignore such things thinking they can't be chewed and you can remove the aluminum. Also, for baseboards, if it is in an out of the way location, you can even just attach a strip of untreated wood for the rabbit to chew on. If neither option is possible, you can rub the Tabasco or bitter apple on the area. You might want to test it in an inconspicuous place first, to make sure no discoloration will occur. After a while your bunny may learn to jump on your furniture. If you feel it needs protected from the toenails and fur, you can use throw blankets on the furniture and simply remove them should you have guests.
Deterrents
If the above precautions still don't eliminate all bad behavior you must use some sort of deterrent to break the habit. If you catch the rabbit in the act of doing something bad, the best way to deter it is to spray it in the face with water. They really dislike this. If you need to keep a rabbit out of a certain area of your home, spray a small amount of indoor/outdoor repellent in the area. The smell will keep the rabbit out of that area. This is ideal for situations when your rabbit keeps returning to one area to display bad behavior.
Litterbox Training
Rabbits can be litterbox trained much like cats. Any age of rabbit can be trained, however with young bunnies there will tend to be a few more 'accidents' until the rabbit reaches maturity.
Items You Will Need
Some items you may want to have on hand when beginning to litterbox train your bunny are the following:
Cat litterbox or plastic pan* Cat litter (not the scoopable kind), sand, or corn cob litter* Whisk broom/dust pan or hand-held vacuum cleaner White vinegar Paper towels Spray bottle filled with water *You may omit the litterbox and cat litter if you are planning on leaving the cage door open for the bunny to use its cage in place of a litterbox. Steps for Litterbox Training Success
The following steps describe what I have found to be the easiest and most productive way of litterbox training a house rabbit.
'Accidents'
If you catch the bunny in the act of relieving itself on the floor, promptly squirt it in the face with the water a couple of times. This will not harm the rabbit, but because they do not like to be sprayed like this, it makes an excellent deterrent. After this, place the rabbit inside the litterbox, and give it some pets and scratches on the head. This way, the rabbit will associate 'bad' with using the floor, but 'good' with the litterbox. If the rabbit leaves 'pills' on the floor, these can be swept up with the broom and dust pan, or easily vacuumed with a hand-held vacuum. Do not leave them on the floor as this will likely encourage the rabbit to to it again. If the rabbit should urinate on the floor, it should be promptly soaked up with a paper towel, and the area thoroughly cleaned with a white vinegar/water mixture. This will neutralize the odor so that the bunny will not be able to smell that it has gone there before, and confuse this place with its litterbox.
Some of the most common reasons that may cause a slipup with a litterbox trained bunny are the following:
Excitement. Often when a bunny gets overly excited, they may accidentally lose control of themselves. Hormones. Sometimes bucks will spray urine to mark their territory. Occasionally a doe will also either urinate or leave feces when her hormones have kicked in and she wants to be bred. These problems can be alleviated by spaying or neutering. Illness. If a rabbit shows signs of diarrhea, it will need to be treated immediately.
Feeding Your Rabbit
Your rabbit's diet should consist mostly of pellets, which are available at your local feed store. The amount that you should feed depends upon the breed of the rabbit. A small breed, such as a Netherland Dwarf should only get about ¼ cup of feed a day. A large breed, such as a Satin, should get 1 cup of feed. If in doubt, ask the person that you have or will purchase the rabbit from for their recommendation as to how much to feed that particular breed. It is not recommended that you give the rabbit all they want to eat (with the exception of a doe with litter). If a rabbit is free fed like this, they will likely become fat, which is not healthy. I would not recommend using pet store or supermarket feeds, as many of these contain inferior ingredients and/or are not fresh and sometimes even moldy. A good feed should have very little or no dust, be a dark green color, and not contain animal based ingredients, sugar, or corn. Another advantage to feed store feed is that pound for pound, it is significantly cheaper than pet store or supermarket feed.
-Note- In addition to pellets, we feed forage in the late spring through fall, and fodder in the winter months. Fresh organic greens will provide a strong immune system and a healthy, happy rabbit.
Supplements
If you purchase a good pelleted feed from a feed store, you do not need to supplement the diet with anything else. This includes powdered vitamins and salt licks, which are commonly sold as supplements. Vitamins are unnecessary unless there is a suspected deficiency, and I've found that salt licks will corrode the cage. All of the vitamins and minerals the rabbit needs will be found in the feed. However, you can add hay or treats to the diet if you wish.
Hay and Straw
It is good to add roughage to your rabbit's diet, and hay is a very good source of this. Roughage will help prevent diarrhea and hairballs. You can feed a handful of grass hay, such as Timothy or Bermuda as often as every day if you wish to a rabbit of any age. You can feed Alfalfa, but sometimes it is too rich for a rabbit's delicate digestive system, whereas the grass hays are not. Never feed any hay that is could possibly be moldy, as this could easily kill the rabbit. If you cannot get a grass hay, you can feed oat straw, although the rabbits much prefer the hay to the straw.
I personally believe that a good grass hay is paramount to a rabbit's digestive health. While many rabbitries feed a purely pelleted diet, I have found that my rabbits do much better when they have hay as well. I have far fewer upset tummies when they have hay to munch on.
Treats
There are many different types of treats that you can feed your rabbit. However, there are also many harmful foods and plants that you should not feed them. The best rule of thumb is if you are unsure if your rabbit can eat something, don't let them eat it. Also, you should never feed any fruits, vegetables, or other 'wet' treats to rabbits under 6 months old, as this can easily cause diarrhea, which can quickly kill them. It is important to feed treats in moderation, as their basic diet should remain as pellets. It is best to only give one or two treats a day at most. The following are some treats that I have found to be okay for rabbits and the quantities that should be given.
Treats okay for a rabbit of any age:
Dry oatmeal (1 tablespoon) Shredded wheat (not frosted) (1 or 2 mini wheats or 1/8-1/4 of a large one) Cheerios (not frosted) (1 tablespoon) Crackers (Club or Saltines) (1-2 crackers)
Treats for rabbits over 6 months:
Apple (1/8) Carrot (2-3 inches) Banana (2 inches) Celery (2-3 inches) Broccoli (1-2 crowns) Comfrey (1-2 large leaves every other day) Parsley, Cilantro, Basil, Mint (1-2 sprigs) Beet greens (1-2 leaves) Green leaf, Read Leaf, Romaine and Butter Lettuces (1-2 leaves) Spinach (3-4 small leaves or 2 large leaves) Kolrabi greens (1 leaf) Cabbage (1 leaf) Marigolds (2-3 flowers) Radish greens (3-4 leaves) Carrot tops (2-3) Plantain (2-3)
There are several other foods that you can feed, however I have not used them and cannot recommend something I have not used myself. Avoid foods such as iceberg lettuce and store bought treats. Both can cause digestive upset.
There is a great list of rabbit friendly foods on the Rise and Shine Rabbitry website. This is also where I ordered my Comfrey roots from.
Basic Rabbit Health
You will need to observe your rabbit and learn what is normal so that you can spot quickly when there is a health concern with your rabbit. Once you know what is normal and spot something abnormal, you should contact your local small animal vet for aid in treating your rabbit. There are several things you can do at home to treat your rabbit, but because it can be difficult to diagnose certain conditions without seeing the rabbit, all health issues are best left up to your vet. If you cannot afford this, you should contact a local breeder, who may be able to physically see the rabbit and help you learn how to treat it.
The following is a checklist for the overall health of your rabbit.
Daily:
Is the rabbit alert? A rabbit that is not alert is usually a sign of illness. Does the rabbit have fresh water and is it drinking? A rabbit that does not have fresh water can possibly be dehydrated. A rabbit that is not drinking also means that it is not eating. Try offering the rabbit fresh, cool, clean water. If it still will not drink, check to make sure it is not dehydrated. You can do this by pulling up on the fur on the scruff of its neck. If the fur is very slow in returning to normal position, the rabbit is dehydrated. Until further medical care is given, give the rabbit some electrolytes (such as Gatorade) through a feeder syringe. Be careful not to give it too fast, as the rabbit could choke. Is the rabbit eating? If the rabbit is not eating but is drinking, it isn't too serious, yet you will need to get the rabbit back on its feed. Try offering small amounts of treats to stimulate it's appetite. If the rabbit will not touch any form of food for more than a day, you should consult your vet. Is it sneezing more than usual or are the inside of the front paws wet or have a yellowish crust on them? This could be a sign of 'Snuffles', which is an illness caused by Pasturella. Vet care should be given if the symptoms appear. Does the rabbit have feces on its genital area? This could be a sign of diarrhea. Give the rabbit some dry oatmeal and a good sized handful of hay to eat. Check for signs of dehydration. If symptoms persist more than a day or so, medical care should be given. Are its eyes runny? If the eyes are runny, you can clean them with a weak boric acid solution, and apply an ophthalmic ointment, such as "Terramycin Ophthalmic Ointment" to the eyes. If symptoms persist, consult your vet.
Weekly:
Are its teeth okay? A rabbit's teeth grow continually. They should be oriented such that the top teeth overlap in front of the bottom teeth. If the teeth should meet head on, they will still grind each other off and there is no need for a health concern. If the bottom teeth should overlap the top, they will not wear each other off, and will cause harm to the rabbit. If this should occur, you should ask you vet to either teach you how to clip their teeth, or else have the front teeth surgically removed. Is the inside of its ears clean? A waxy buildup or crustiness inside of the ears are signs of the possibility of mites. To treat, gently clean the area with a cotton ball and alcohol. Then, place 3 or 4 drops of mineral or salad oil into each ear and massage the base of the ear. Repeat every day for 3 or 4 days. The oil will drown the mites. If symptoms are severe, consult your vet. Is the fur in good condition? If the fur looks dead or has bald or flaky areas, there is a possibility of fur mites. Consult your local vet for treatment. Are its toenails long? If the toenails grow too long, they will likely break or tear off, which causes pain to the rabbit. Simply trim the toenails if they appear long. Any other abnormalities, such as a tilt to the head (wry neck), broken bones, etc. should be treated immediately by your vet.
Vaccinations
There are currently no needed vaccinations available for rabbits in the U.S. Recently there has been a vaccine developed for the Pasturella Bacteria which causes "snuffles.". There have been mixed reviews, and for the most part, only breeders with large rabbitries or rabbits that are shown extensively are using the vaccine.There are several strains of the disease that the vaccine is not effective against. The best prevention against snuffles is a strong immune system and a clean, well-ventilated living space.
Spaying and Neutering
If you are only going to keep rabbits as pets, it is recommended that they be spayed or neutered. In a never-been-bred doe, this will help guard against uterine cancer. Also, spaying and neutering will allow you to easily keep more than one rabbit in the same living quarters without worry of breeding and fighting. It will help curb or eliminate territorial habits such as spraying. Therefore, it will benefit all to have your rabbit altered.
Sexing Your Rabbit
It is difficult to tell the difference between a buck and a doe in young rabbits and takes a lot of practice to learn. In older rabbits, it is much easier. The following describes how you can tell if your bunny is a buck or a doe.
1. Flip the rabbit over onto it's back. 2. Hold the scruff of the rabbit's neck with one hand. 3. Take your other hand and hold the rabbit's tail between your index and middle fingers. 4. Gently press down just above the sexual orifice with your thumb until either a 'slit' or a 'circle' are evident. In older rabbits, either the penis or the vagina will be very obvious. 5. In young bunnies, a 'slit' shape means that the rabbit is a doe, a 'circle' shape means that it is a buck.
Once you decide on purchasing a rabbit, you will need to determine what breed you wish to get. Each breed is unique and typically range between 2 and 15 pounds. Some have lopped ears, some have wool, some have short velvety fur (rex fur), and some even have a combination of these or other characteristics. Your decision depends upon your own preferences, time, space, and the availability of the breed in your area.
To view photos of all of the different breeds of rabbits in the US, visit http://www.arba.net and click on the link that says "Breed Photos and National Club Links". This will help give you an idea as to which breed appeals to you. To find specific information about a particular breed, click on that photo and you will be taken to the website for the breed's national specialty club. There, you will find more specific information about the breed.
What Age to Buy
The age of the rabbit is very important when deciding whether or not to buy it. You should NOT buy a rabbit under 8 weeks old. Although some irresponsible people will try to sell bunnies as young as 4 weeks old, they are not yet fully weaned at this age. When a bunny is 4 weeks old, they are typically just starting to eat solid food, but still nursing. If they are forced away from their mother to eat entirely solid food, this will disrupt their digestive system and will often lead to death. At 8 weeks old, they should be eating entirely solid food on their own, and ready to be taken from their mother. In most states, including the state of Arizona, it is illegal to sell a kit under 8 weeks of age. Breeders that advertise unborn babies or kits under 8 weeks are the types of breeders you want to avoid. Rabbits kits are far more delicate than kittens or puppies, who are generally ready to be deposited upon around 6 weeks of age or so. Rabbits are at the weaning stage at that time, so placing a deposit on a baby that still has a chance of passing away due to weaning enteritis complications is not smart on the buyer's behalf and not ethical on the breeder's part. In addition to researching your chosen breed, research the breeders you have in your area so you are buying from a reputable one, and not a backyard breeder selling underage mutts on craigslist.
We hold our babies until 12 weeks of age so they have completely passed the weaning enteritis stage and we have a better idea as to the quality they could turn out to be. Typically, a rabbit will live to be about 5-7 years old, although some live as long as 10+ years. Although babies are cute and fun, getting an adult rabbit can be equally rewarding. While looking for a rabbit, try to keep an open mind and possibly be willing to accept an adult rabbit in need of a good home to your family. There are definite benefits to getting an adult rabbit. Their personality is apparent and developed, they are often already friendly and well adjusted, and are by far easier to litter box train. Rabbits are generally considered adults between the ages of 6 an 8 months depending on the breed, but often times they continue to slowly grow and develop up to 3 years of age.
Which Sex is Right for You
The sex of a pet bunny really does not matter. There is not much personality difference between bucks and does, although each rabbit does have their own distinct personality. I've found that in my breed, Holland Lops, the bucks tend to be more lively and friendly and the does tend to be more calm and cuddly. So, it depends on your own personal preference as to which sex is right for you.
Breeders vs. Pet Stores
There are many reasons why typically, I've found it best to purchase a pet quality rabbit from a reputable breeder rather than most pet stores. A pet store charges is usually significantly higher than that of a breeder. Also, the rabbits a breeder sells are most often purebred and rabbits from a pet store are usually mixed breed. Yet, pet stores will market these mixed breed rabbits labeled as popular breed names, even if when the rabbit matures it bears no resemblance to the breed it was sold as. When you purchase a purebred rabbit, you can be almost certain the rabbit will mature as expected.
The average pet store price of accessories for the rabbit are usually higher than that of a breeder. Although many breeders will not have equipment for sale, those who do tend to sell at reasonable prices, since many make their own cages and buy the other accessories in bulk. Most breeders that sell accessories will sell a rabbit and the accessories as a package deal. Usually, if a breeder does not offer accessories for sale, they can refer you to a business who does. There are several rabbit equipment suppliers around the country that offer good prices on rabbit equipment.
The age of the rabbit for sale sometimes depends on the state that the rabbit is purchased in. Some states have regulations that a rabbit cannot be sold unless it has reached a minimum age. In states without such laws, most pet stores will want to offer rabbits for sale that are still at the little, cute age. This tends to be about 4-6 weeks old, which is before the bunnies are fully weaned. Although it is a health risk to the bunnies to be sold so young, they are very marketable at this age. A business will tend to try to make a profit, and be more willing to take this risk to do so. A breeder will wait until they feel that the rabbits are fully weaned, which is when they are about 6-8 weeks old. At this age, the bunnies aren't nearly as fragile as they were a couple weeks before, therefore they are off to a much better start on a healthy life.
Another difference between pet stores and breeders is the health guarantee on the rabbit. Usually, a pet store will only have a 24 hour guarantee for any animal they sell. If it gets sick or dies after that, they will do nothing to replace the animal. For this reason, most people will not return a rabbit should it get ill or die. They figure it is past the guarantee and cannot even complain. This is one reason why pet stores continue to sell rabbits at an unhealthy age. When purchasing from a breeder, you can usually request a health guarantee. Most breeders will give 2-4 weeks for the guarantee. Also, many breeders will have a take back policy, should the new owner need to get rid of the rabbit. This way, the rabbit can be placed in another pet home and will help keep people from 'disposing' of their pets inhumanely (such as turning them loose).
Pet stores and breeders usually act very different when it comes to care instructions and answering post-sale questions. Normally, a pet store will offer no written care instructions, just verbal ones. Even then, due to their lack of knowledge of rabbits, their instructions aren't always accurate. Also, pet stores don't usually offer much for answering post-sale questions. Again, this is due to a lack of knowledge of the store employees. On the other hand, many breeders will give both written and verbal instructions at the time of the sale, as well as contact information should the owner ever have any questions. Overall, the breeder's knowledge of rabbits is far superior to that of the average pet store employee. Therefore, the breeder can offer more information to the pet owner than the pet store can.
Housing Your Rabbit
Cage Location:
The first thing you will need to do is determine the location of the cage for your rabbit. This will determine the type of cage that you will need for the rabbit. A rabbit can live either indoors or outdoors.
For an outdoor cage, you will need to make sure the location meets the following requirements:
It is well protected from the weather. No wind, direct sunlight, moisture, etc. can reach the inside of the cage. It is protected from extreme temperatures. A rabbit should have extra protection, such as straw or hay for bedding, when temperatures get near or below zero. If the cold is extreme, other means of heating should be used. A rabbit can handle cold temperatures much better than heat, though. When temperatures rise above 80 degrees, a cooling method should be used. The method should not make the rabbit very wet or sitting in a breeze (such as right in front of a fan), as these can cause the rabbit to catch cold. Some suggestions to use are a frozen 2 liter bottle of water in the cage for the rabbit to lay against, a misting system outside of the cage, evaporative cooler, air conditioner, fan, etc. It is protected from other animals. Dogs, cats, and wild animals can pose a threat to the rabbit. It should be well ventilated and provide adequate daylight (not direct sunlight) during the day. For an indoor cage you will need to make sure the location meets the following requirements:
It is protected from other household pets that may pose a threat to the rabbit. It is located in an area that has adequate light (roughly 50% light, 50% dark is sufficient) The rabbit cannot reach any foreign materials (electric cords, clothing, plants, etc.) through the wire of the cage. It is not too hot (over 80 degrees) or too cold (below zero) in the location that the rabbit will be housed.
Cage Type:
Depending on whether you chose to house the rabbit indoors or outdoors, you will now need to choose a cage type that will best suit your needs. Usually, it is best to use a hutch for an outdoor rabbit, and an all-wire cage for a rabbit housed inside of a building or home.
A hutch is typically a wood and wire construction that is built to house the rabbit. It should have a slanted roof to allow for runoff of moisture. It should have a solid back, and at least one solid side to help protect from wind. The front and other side should be made of no larger than 1x2" wire, and include the door on the front with a secure latch. The floor should be made of either 1/2x1" or 1/2x1/2" wire, to allow the waste to drop through the floor of the cage. Although some hutches have solid wood floors, this is not recommended due to sanitation purposes. Most hutches are free-standing and stabilized to make sure it doesn't tip over. DO NOT build the hutch out of painted or chemically treated wood, as this can be harmful to the rabbit should it chew on it.
An all-wire cage is best suited for an indoor purpose. An all-wire cage is usually made of 1x2" wire, with 1/2x1" wire on the floor. Most have a metal drop pan attached to the bottom to catch the waste. Because the cage provides no protection from the elements, it is only recommended for use inside a building or home.
We do not use litter boxes and do not recommend solid bottom cages. What you use is up to you, but please be aware that my rabbits are kept on wire bottom cages that allow all excrement to fall below the rabbit into drop pans, eliminating the chances of coming into contact with it. None of our rabbits have issues with sore hocks, and despite the popular, non-factual opinion of the House Rabbit Society, wire bottom cages do not cause sore hocks. Poor breeding, obesity and unsanitary living conditions are the sole contributors to sore hocks, which are more likely to occur on solid bottom flooring. Despite this, rabbits can still be relatively easy to litter box train should you decide to do so.
The mature weight of the breed of rabbit you purchase will determine the size of the cage you need. For the smaller breeds, a good rule of thumb is to allow at least one square foot of floor space per pound of mature weight. With the larger breeds, you can usually allow about 1/2 or 3/4 of a square foot per pound of mature weight. If in doubt, ask the person whom you purchased the rabbit from for their recommendation as to the size of the cage best suited for the breed.
Cohabitation:
It is generally not recommended to have 2 or more rabbits living together in the same cage. Here are the specific scenarios for different combinations of rabbits living together:
Two bucks - Two males living together will become territorial as they mature and will fight.
One buck and one doe - A pair of rabbits living together will result in continual mating. As the doe gets closer to her due date, she will become more territorial and aggressive towards the buck. The two may start fighting at this point. If the doe successfully has her litter, often the entire litter will be killed by the buck.
Two does - This combination will sometimes work, provided that the two were raised together and do in fact get along. It only works out about half of the time. If you choose to do this, be sure to watch for signs of conflict, as at any time they could turn on one another. If signs of conflict occur, you will need to permanently house the two separately. Also, if you are expecting a litter from one or both does living together, they will need to be housed separately to raise their litters. Fighting among rabbits often leads to serious injury or death. Therefore, it is important to keep any conflicts from occurring.
If the rabbits are intended to be together, it is absolutely mandatory that they BOTH be spayed or neutered. Hormones play a huge role in the attitude and aggression of the rabbit. A moody doe might attach her neutered companion during a wave of hormones, when the rest of the time she is perfectly happy with her companion. The same holds true with males, however they maintain a more constant level of hormone influence, whereas does fluctuate.
Grooming Your Rabbit
Rabbits are generally very clean animals, yet they do need grooming. The amount of grooming needed depends mostly upon the fur type of the rabbit.
Grooming Normal and Rex Fur
A normal or rex furred rabbit will need to be brushed occasionally, but especially when the rabbit is molting. A rabbit will usually molt only once or twice a year. During other times, they shed very little fur. A normal or rex furred rabbit should be groomed with a slicker brush. To get out any loose or dead fur, you can dampen your hands with water, then pet the rabbit. The loose fur will then stick to your hands.
Grooming Wool
A wooled breed will need the most grooming. To keep the coat from matting, you will need to thoroughly groom them daily using a rake or comb to help break up any matting. To get a mat out of the fur, work at just a little at a time, from the tip of the fur towards the skin. Get as much as you can out with your fingers, then use the rake or comb.
Stain Removal
Occasionally a rabbit will get urine stains on its fur. To remove these stains, first get as much as you can off with plain water. On a white patch of fur, you can use hydrogen peroxide on the area, thoroughly soaking it. Just leave the peroxide on the fur to dry. Do not use the peroxide around the eyes. Another method of stain removal is to wet the area and apply cornstarch. Let it dry, and then brush the area.
Bathing
Under normal circumstances, you do not need to bathe your rabbit. However, should your rabbit get very dirty, you may wish to bathe it. The best place to bathe a rabbit is in a kitchen sink with a sprayer. It is also very helpful to have 2 people bathing the rabbit, to avoid injury. To do this, follow these steps:
1. Place a scrap of carpet, towel, or rag in the bottom of the sink to keep the rabbit from slipping. 2. Adjust the temperature of the water to lukewarm. 3. Place the rabbit into the sink. Have one person keep control of the rabbit. 4. Using the sprayer, get the rabbit's body thoroughly wet. When bathing, you will want to avoid getting water in the ears and soap in the eyes, so it is best to only bathe the rabbit from the neck down. 5. Rub a small amount of baby shampoo throughout the fur of the rabbit. You will want to have the other person hold the rabbit over the sink on it's back to wash it's underside. 6. Thoroughly rinse the shampoo from the fur. Make sure you get it all out well so that the rabbit does not ingest the soap when it grooms itself. 7. Remove the rabbit from the sink and dry it as thoroughly as you can with a towel. 8. Using a blow dryer set on low or medium, thoroughly dry the rabbit. If you have it set on heat, make sure you do not let any one area of the rabbit get too hot. If the rabbit does seem to be getting hot, use the cool setting. Do not leave the rabbit wet any longer than you have to, because it can easily catch cold. 9. Only after the rabbit is thoroughly dry, you can return it to it's cage.
Trimming Your Rabbit's Toenails
It is important to trim your rabbit's nails regularly to avoid discomfort to the rabbit should the nails grow too long. It will also help protect you from sharp claws should the rabbit scratch you.
When trimming the toenails, you can either have the rabbit on it's back in your lap, or the rabbit sitting down on the floor or table. Whichever way is the most comfortable for both you and the rabbit is the method you should use.
When trimming it is easiest to do one paw at a time so you do not accidentally skip any nails. There are 5 claws on each front paw, including the dewclaw on the inside, and 4 claws on each back paw. Make sure to not cut past the 'quick' of the nail, which is the blood vessel that extends part way down the nail. It is especially difficult to see in dark toenails. For this reason, it is best to have good lighting when you are trimming the nails to ensure you do not cut into this blood vessel.
If you should cut into the blood vessel, use styptic powder to help stop the bleeding. If you do not have any on hand, you can use a paper towel to absorb the blood until it stops bleeding on its own.
Rabbit-Proofing Your Home
Before allowing your house rabbit out to run in your home, there are some precautions you need to take to protect both the bunny as well as your home.
Items you may need
The following is a list of some items you may find helpful in rabbit-proofing your home:
Tabasco sauce or bitter apple Indoor/Outdoor Repellents (made for cats and dogs) Plastic tubing Thin aluminum sheeting (garden aluminum) Spray Bottle of water Electrical Cords
Rabbits will chew on most anything, especially electrical cords. There are, however, some things you can do to avoid this. The simplest and best way is to get any cords out of the rabbit's reach. You can staple them to the wall or hide them behind or under furniture. If this cannot be done, the next best thing you can do is get some plastic tubing and cut a slit down the length of the tube. The tube diameter should reflect the size and amount of cords to be placed in the tube. Then, simply push the length of the cord into the tubing. You will only need to place the tubing around any portion of the cord that could be reached by the rabbit. If this isn't possible, you can rub Tabasco sauce or bitter apple on the cord. Once the rabbit tries to chew and gets a taste, it should leave the cord alone.
Furniture and Baseboards
Sometimes a rabbit will even try to chew on your furniture or baseboards. If it is convenient, the easiest way to avoid this is to place aluminum sheeting around the chair leg, baseboard, etc. so that it is impossible to chew. After a while the rabbit should begin to ignore such things thinking they can't be chewed and you can remove the aluminum. Also, for baseboards, if it is in an out of the way location, you can even just attach a strip of untreated wood for the rabbit to chew on. If neither option is possible, you can rub the Tabasco or bitter apple on the area. You might want to test it in an inconspicuous place first, to make sure no discoloration will occur. After a while your bunny may learn to jump on your furniture. If you feel it needs protected from the toenails and fur, you can use throw blankets on the furniture and simply remove them should you have guests.
Deterrents
If the above precautions still don't eliminate all bad behavior you must use some sort of deterrent to break the habit. If you catch the rabbit in the act of doing something bad, the best way to deter it is to spray it in the face with water. They really dislike this. If you need to keep a rabbit out of a certain area of your home, spray a small amount of indoor/outdoor repellent in the area. The smell will keep the rabbit out of that area. This is ideal for situations when your rabbit keeps returning to one area to display bad behavior.
Litterbox Training
Rabbits can be litterbox trained much like cats. Any age of rabbit can be trained, however with young bunnies there will tend to be a few more 'accidents' until the rabbit reaches maturity.
Items You Will Need
Some items you may want to have on hand when beginning to litterbox train your bunny are the following:
Cat litterbox or plastic pan* Cat litter (not the scoopable kind), sand, or corn cob litter* Whisk broom/dust pan or hand-held vacuum cleaner White vinegar Paper towels Spray bottle filled with water *You may omit the litterbox and cat litter if you are planning on leaving the cage door open for the bunny to use its cage in place of a litterbox. Steps for Litterbox Training Success
The following steps describe what I have found to be the easiest and most productive way of litterbox training a house rabbit.
- Fill the litterbox ¼ to ½ full of litter. Place it in the corner of the cage that the rabbit chooses as its bathroom spot. A rabbit will generally always go to the bathroom in the same corner of its cage. This way, the rabbit will associate the box with going to the bathroom. If it's not possible to place the litterbox inside the cage, place some droppings and a urine soaked paper towel inside the litterbox and proceed to step two.
- Place the litterbox in the desired area and let the rabbit out to run. Immediately place the rabbit in the litterbox and every few minutes thereafter so that it can smell that this is its potty spot and help it remember where it is located.
- Once the bunny uses the litterbox on its own, give it positive reinforcement. A small treat and some pets will help reinforce the idea that it is a good thing to use in the litterbox. Soon, the bunny will use it routinely, with no need for extra treats.
'Accidents'
If you catch the bunny in the act of relieving itself on the floor, promptly squirt it in the face with the water a couple of times. This will not harm the rabbit, but because they do not like to be sprayed like this, it makes an excellent deterrent. After this, place the rabbit inside the litterbox, and give it some pets and scratches on the head. This way, the rabbit will associate 'bad' with using the floor, but 'good' with the litterbox. If the rabbit leaves 'pills' on the floor, these can be swept up with the broom and dust pan, or easily vacuumed with a hand-held vacuum. Do not leave them on the floor as this will likely encourage the rabbit to to it again. If the rabbit should urinate on the floor, it should be promptly soaked up with a paper towel, and the area thoroughly cleaned with a white vinegar/water mixture. This will neutralize the odor so that the bunny will not be able to smell that it has gone there before, and confuse this place with its litterbox.
Some of the most common reasons that may cause a slipup with a litterbox trained bunny are the following:
Excitement. Often when a bunny gets overly excited, they may accidentally lose control of themselves. Hormones. Sometimes bucks will spray urine to mark their territory. Occasionally a doe will also either urinate or leave feces when her hormones have kicked in and she wants to be bred. These problems can be alleviated by spaying or neutering. Illness. If a rabbit shows signs of diarrhea, it will need to be treated immediately.
Feeding Your Rabbit
Your rabbit's diet should consist mostly of pellets, which are available at your local feed store. The amount that you should feed depends upon the breed of the rabbit. A small breed, such as a Netherland Dwarf should only get about ¼ cup of feed a day. A large breed, such as a Satin, should get 1 cup of feed. If in doubt, ask the person that you have or will purchase the rabbit from for their recommendation as to how much to feed that particular breed. It is not recommended that you give the rabbit all they want to eat (with the exception of a doe with litter). If a rabbit is free fed like this, they will likely become fat, which is not healthy. I would not recommend using pet store or supermarket feeds, as many of these contain inferior ingredients and/or are not fresh and sometimes even moldy. A good feed should have very little or no dust, be a dark green color, and not contain animal based ingredients, sugar, or corn. Another advantage to feed store feed is that pound for pound, it is significantly cheaper than pet store or supermarket feed.
-Note- In addition to pellets, we feed forage in the late spring through fall, and fodder in the winter months. Fresh organic greens will provide a strong immune system and a healthy, happy rabbit.
Supplements
If you purchase a good pelleted feed from a feed store, you do not need to supplement the diet with anything else. This includes powdered vitamins and salt licks, which are commonly sold as supplements. Vitamins are unnecessary unless there is a suspected deficiency, and I've found that salt licks will corrode the cage. All of the vitamins and minerals the rabbit needs will be found in the feed. However, you can add hay or treats to the diet if you wish.
Hay and Straw
It is good to add roughage to your rabbit's diet, and hay is a very good source of this. Roughage will help prevent diarrhea and hairballs. You can feed a handful of grass hay, such as Timothy or Bermuda as often as every day if you wish to a rabbit of any age. You can feed Alfalfa, but sometimes it is too rich for a rabbit's delicate digestive system, whereas the grass hays are not. Never feed any hay that is could possibly be moldy, as this could easily kill the rabbit. If you cannot get a grass hay, you can feed oat straw, although the rabbits much prefer the hay to the straw.
I personally believe that a good grass hay is paramount to a rabbit's digestive health. While many rabbitries feed a purely pelleted diet, I have found that my rabbits do much better when they have hay as well. I have far fewer upset tummies when they have hay to munch on.
Treats
There are many different types of treats that you can feed your rabbit. However, there are also many harmful foods and plants that you should not feed them. The best rule of thumb is if you are unsure if your rabbit can eat something, don't let them eat it. Also, you should never feed any fruits, vegetables, or other 'wet' treats to rabbits under 6 months old, as this can easily cause diarrhea, which can quickly kill them. It is important to feed treats in moderation, as their basic diet should remain as pellets. It is best to only give one or two treats a day at most. The following are some treats that I have found to be okay for rabbits and the quantities that should be given.
Treats okay for a rabbit of any age:
Dry oatmeal (1 tablespoon) Shredded wheat (not frosted) (1 or 2 mini wheats or 1/8-1/4 of a large one) Cheerios (not frosted) (1 tablespoon) Crackers (Club or Saltines) (1-2 crackers)
Treats for rabbits over 6 months:
Apple (1/8) Carrot (2-3 inches) Banana (2 inches) Celery (2-3 inches) Broccoli (1-2 crowns) Comfrey (1-2 large leaves every other day) Parsley, Cilantro, Basil, Mint (1-2 sprigs) Beet greens (1-2 leaves) Green leaf, Read Leaf, Romaine and Butter Lettuces (1-2 leaves) Spinach (3-4 small leaves or 2 large leaves) Kolrabi greens (1 leaf) Cabbage (1 leaf) Marigolds (2-3 flowers) Radish greens (3-4 leaves) Carrot tops (2-3) Plantain (2-3)
There are several other foods that you can feed, however I have not used them and cannot recommend something I have not used myself. Avoid foods such as iceberg lettuce and store bought treats. Both can cause digestive upset.
There is a great list of rabbit friendly foods on the Rise and Shine Rabbitry website. This is also where I ordered my Comfrey roots from.
Basic Rabbit Health
You will need to observe your rabbit and learn what is normal so that you can spot quickly when there is a health concern with your rabbit. Once you know what is normal and spot something abnormal, you should contact your local small animal vet for aid in treating your rabbit. There are several things you can do at home to treat your rabbit, but because it can be difficult to diagnose certain conditions without seeing the rabbit, all health issues are best left up to your vet. If you cannot afford this, you should contact a local breeder, who may be able to physically see the rabbit and help you learn how to treat it.
The following is a checklist for the overall health of your rabbit.
Daily:
Is the rabbit alert? A rabbit that is not alert is usually a sign of illness. Does the rabbit have fresh water and is it drinking? A rabbit that does not have fresh water can possibly be dehydrated. A rabbit that is not drinking also means that it is not eating. Try offering the rabbit fresh, cool, clean water. If it still will not drink, check to make sure it is not dehydrated. You can do this by pulling up on the fur on the scruff of its neck. If the fur is very slow in returning to normal position, the rabbit is dehydrated. Until further medical care is given, give the rabbit some electrolytes (such as Gatorade) through a feeder syringe. Be careful not to give it too fast, as the rabbit could choke. Is the rabbit eating? If the rabbit is not eating but is drinking, it isn't too serious, yet you will need to get the rabbit back on its feed. Try offering small amounts of treats to stimulate it's appetite. If the rabbit will not touch any form of food for more than a day, you should consult your vet. Is it sneezing more than usual or are the inside of the front paws wet or have a yellowish crust on them? This could be a sign of 'Snuffles', which is an illness caused by Pasturella. Vet care should be given if the symptoms appear. Does the rabbit have feces on its genital area? This could be a sign of diarrhea. Give the rabbit some dry oatmeal and a good sized handful of hay to eat. Check for signs of dehydration. If symptoms persist more than a day or so, medical care should be given. Are its eyes runny? If the eyes are runny, you can clean them with a weak boric acid solution, and apply an ophthalmic ointment, such as "Terramycin Ophthalmic Ointment" to the eyes. If symptoms persist, consult your vet.
Weekly:
Are its teeth okay? A rabbit's teeth grow continually. They should be oriented such that the top teeth overlap in front of the bottom teeth. If the teeth should meet head on, they will still grind each other off and there is no need for a health concern. If the bottom teeth should overlap the top, they will not wear each other off, and will cause harm to the rabbit. If this should occur, you should ask you vet to either teach you how to clip their teeth, or else have the front teeth surgically removed. Is the inside of its ears clean? A waxy buildup or crustiness inside of the ears are signs of the possibility of mites. To treat, gently clean the area with a cotton ball and alcohol. Then, place 3 or 4 drops of mineral or salad oil into each ear and massage the base of the ear. Repeat every day for 3 or 4 days. The oil will drown the mites. If symptoms are severe, consult your vet. Is the fur in good condition? If the fur looks dead or has bald or flaky areas, there is a possibility of fur mites. Consult your local vet for treatment. Are its toenails long? If the toenails grow too long, they will likely break or tear off, which causes pain to the rabbit. Simply trim the toenails if they appear long. Any other abnormalities, such as a tilt to the head (wry neck), broken bones, etc. should be treated immediately by your vet.
Vaccinations
There are currently no needed vaccinations available for rabbits in the U.S. Recently there has been a vaccine developed for the Pasturella Bacteria which causes "snuffles.". There have been mixed reviews, and for the most part, only breeders with large rabbitries or rabbits that are shown extensively are using the vaccine.There are several strains of the disease that the vaccine is not effective against. The best prevention against snuffles is a strong immune system and a clean, well-ventilated living space.
Spaying and Neutering
If you are only going to keep rabbits as pets, it is recommended that they be spayed or neutered. In a never-been-bred doe, this will help guard against uterine cancer. Also, spaying and neutering will allow you to easily keep more than one rabbit in the same living quarters without worry of breeding and fighting. It will help curb or eliminate territorial habits such as spraying. Therefore, it will benefit all to have your rabbit altered.
Sexing Your Rabbit
It is difficult to tell the difference between a buck and a doe in young rabbits and takes a lot of practice to learn. In older rabbits, it is much easier. The following describes how you can tell if your bunny is a buck or a doe.
1. Flip the rabbit over onto it's back. 2. Hold the scruff of the rabbit's neck with one hand. 3. Take your other hand and hold the rabbit's tail between your index and middle fingers. 4. Gently press down just above the sexual orifice with your thumb until either a 'slit' or a 'circle' are evident. In older rabbits, either the penis or the vagina will be very obvious. 5. In young bunnies, a 'slit' shape means that the rabbit is a doe, a 'circle' shape means that it is a buck.